Something Fishy

The news of Nobu having to close one its London restaurants a fortnight ago may have caused as much of a tremor as the failure of the neighbouring Lehman Brothers bank. Nobu? Closing? Crisis!

We may laugh, but knowing where they serve the best sushi is essential for any poseur these days, and Nobu was always the safe answer.

Here in Barcelona, food snobs were given a few pointers from Ferran Adriá, who’s been praising Hiddeki Matsuhisha’s Shunka like an over-eager PR trainee. And now the answer should be even simpler, with its premium sister restaurant opening one street down.

Koy Shunka is the name of this new temple, but the focus remains on the quality of the raw materials so expect the usual slaps of dead fish on loafs of rice, in addition to house specialties like flamed salmon and feet of crayfish.

They're also treating us to upgraded seating (no more wobbling at the bar) to make the place feel less tavern and more restaurant. And the bill’s been upgraded, too. Clearly no crisis here.

Koy Shunka – opening this week
Copons 7, Gótico – 93 412 4991 (Shunka)

By AAl