EAT & DRINK

Originally published on Thursday, 13 November 2008

A Smile Is Your Personal Welcome Mat

After a Chinese meal, some people are more interested in finding out what's inside their fortune cookies than wondering about what the heck they just ate. Not me. That was a three-course meal. With wine. For six euros.

Yes, while Japanese food has somehow managed to establish itself as being somewhat upscale in our part of the world, there's no such pretence with Chinese - only a seemingly inverse correlation between the number of stray dogs and restaurants in the area.

To change that perception, I'd trust no one more than Grupo Tragaluz, and it's indeed the Mandarin cuisine which is getting a Rosa María Esteva-Tomás Tarruella make-over. Lodged at hotel 1898, next to her double-decker Bar Lobo/El Japonés establishment, we say ni hao to La Xina, her latest venture.

Lush, as you'd expect - this time all dark wood and red lacquer, reflecting the light from the fire dragon lantern snaking across the room - and with the Tragaluz seal, I need no cookies to predict a bright future for this one.

La Xina - now open
Pintor Fortuny 3, Raval
Lucky numbers: 93 342 9628
Menu EUR 22 plus drinks

by SNo

 

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