Now that Covent Garden's once vibrant thespian hangout Joe Allen's is gasping its last breath, the call for a characterful basement bar, where you can drink copious amounts of red wine (pre, post or without any theatre at all - it's up to you), then soak it up with something hearty and chips, is stronger than ever.

Bedford & Strand has hit the mark nicely with its long, welcoming counter and darkly-lit crevices - all the better to hide away downing Merlot and picking over one of their exceptional cheese boards - and now another contender for the crown has emerged.

Housed in an old church, The Forge is the newest addition to Robert Siegler's mini empire (Covent Garden institute Le Cafe du Jardin and the equally popular Les Deuxieme nearby are his other two) and we think it's destined to become a classic in its own right. The bright and breezy ground floor restaurant, with its exposed brickwork, is all very nice, but it's the downstairs bar that our money's on.