I discovered how good mushrooms were for you the other day and it's made me look at the dumpy, scruffy little things in a whole new light. I'd always thought of mushrooms as being rather like the Eeyores of the vegetable world - they don't exactly exude crunchy optimism in the same way that other veg seem to.

However, now that I know they're a superfood and are in fact bursting with protein, potassium and selenium, and not just something to fob the vegetarians off with I can't get enough of them.

The Italians have always been particularly good with vegetables so you could start by sampling some of the 3,000 edible varieties at Sartoria, where they do a very good wild boar tortellini with autumn mushroom ragu. There is also Acorn House, which never misses a seasonal trick and is currently serving up ravioli of potato with wild mushrooms, marscapone and parsley, and good old Roast is doing a nice cosy-sounding stuffed squash with field mushrooms, lentils and spiced breadcrumbs.

We might have to save ourselves til we check out the new VIR (very important restaurant) Hibiscus, which recently moved down from Ludlow, Shropshire to the Big Smoke. and starts serving such delights as sea bass stuffed with wild mushrooms, creamed chestnut and cardamom oil.