TRAVEL
Originally published on Tuesday, 10 June 2008
Mr & Mrs Smith : Verona
For escapist entertainment on a truly grand scale, Verona Opera Festival is perfect. Located in a Roman amphitheatre in front of thousands of spectators, it offers spectacle, star quality, and opera as it should be – big and beautiful.
LOCAL CUSTOM
Join in the tradition of lighting a candle before the opera begins – a communal celebration of the setting, which becomes a flickering galaxy of light.
IN THE KNOW
The best view can be had from seats 1-32 in Fila 1, the first row, literally spitting distance from the singers. When booking, ask for the Poltronissime Gold seats.
INSIDER TIP
If you go for the cheap seats, bring a cushion (the Roman stone can be quite unforgiving after a few hours). A little torch for reading the program is handy, too.
DOS AND DON'TS
DO Arrive early if you’re in the cheap seats: they’re unnumbered, so it’s first come, first served.
DO Visit the Anteprima Opera (opera preview). The afternoon events take place in the historic Hotel Due Torri Baglioni, and offer opera innocents some background on the story (+39 045 800 9461)
DON’T expect to hail a taxi – the done thing here is to find a rank.
NEED TO KNOW
FOOD & DRINK
For post-opera meals beware of overpriced tourist traps. Instead, try Bottega del Vino , on Via Scudo di Francia (+39 045 800 4535), which offers three courses for about €30, or sample the handmade bigoli pasta at Trattoria Tre Marchetti da Barca, on Vicolo Tre Marchetti (+39 045 803 0463).
SLEEP
Book early as Verona is small. Lake Garda is 40 minutes away by car and a popular spot to stay. Villa Feltrinelli (+39 036 579 8000) is a beautiful neo-gothic villa built in 1892 and was a wartime hideout for Mussolini.
MORE DETAILS
Arena
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