EAT & DRINK

Originally published on Wednesday, 10 September 2008

Northcote Nouveaux

Last weekend I was venting my frustration about the buggy-ridden, mediocre food zone between the Northcote Road and Battersea Rise.

It's not that I don't like the area, I live there after all, but after a while places with names like Crumpet, Boiled Egg & Soldiers and Giraffe start to grate and make you wonder whether the restaurateurs and cafe-owners themselves might still be in Pampers.

Over recent months however I've reported a sea change which is still looking hopeful. The chic French Couleur Cafe has reopened, its owners having presumably summered in Provence; and having returned to The Bolingbroke for a very decent dinner I've been reassured that its future looks rosy. But my expectations for the swishly-named Broome & Delancey may be set too high.

Since it softly opened a few weeks ago this new addition to Battersea Rise has received mixed reviews. While the name enticingly conjures up something New Yorkese, and its decor is decidedly grown-up, the jury is out on the food. I've only been for a coffee so far but am eager to try the duck shepherd's pie, and, being something of a brunch-whore, will probably be sidling along for pancakes soon.

But maybe I should just face it: SW11 is never gonna be the West Village and I should keep my chips on kitsch Italian Numero Uno. At least I know where I am with a tiramisu and free limoncello.

Watch this baby-free space.

Couleur Cafe - 37 Webbs Road, SW11 • 020 7924 3030
The Bolingbroke - 174 Northcote Road, SW11 • 020 7228 4040
Broome & Delancey - 35-37 Battersea Rise, SW11 • 020 7228 9400
Numero Uno - 139 Northcote Road, SW11 • 020 7978 5837

by SL

Comments:

Author: Nick Weston
Date: 11-09-2008 22:27:46
As far as the Northcote road goes, The Merchant is worth a visit, Broome & Delancy looks rather poor. Other than maybe Randalls, Doves is the best butchers in town.
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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.

 
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