Highbrow Poutine

Serves 6 as a main course

When I was 18 I moved to Montreal to start university. I imagined that a southern Ontario childhood had taught me how to cope with the perils of a Canadian winter but I was quickly proved wrong. Compared to Montrealers who live in -25 temperatures for up to 4 months of the year, I was a total amateur.

Soon enough I was introduced to poutine which would form the key to my survival. Essentially french fries topped with gravy and cheese curds so fresh that they squeak when you chew them, poutine has magical powers. It fills you with the strength to trudge through a foot of snow and -50 windchill factor gales where other, lesser mortals would falter.

Poutine has obtained an affectionate place in Canadian culture and many restaurants in Montreal and Toronto are offering more upscale versions of it for nostalgic guests. This is my version - topped with shredded short ribs slowly braised in beer and some sharp cheddar.

Poutine Topping

1 kilo of beef short ribs, cut into wide, 3 inch bands
1 tsp sea salt
1 small handful dried porcini mushrooms
125 mls boiling water
2 tsp olive oil
1 large onion, minced
5 bay leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
600 ml Belgian ale (aim for something fruity, spicy, and slightly bitter)
a handful of cheddar cheese curds or coarsely grated cheddar cheese

Chips

3 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into fries about 1/2 inch wide
vegetable oil for deep frying
sea salt 

Instructions

Begin by making the poutine topping. Trim the excess fat from the short ribs. Sprinkle the salt on the meat evenly on all sides, cover loosely and place in the fridge until ready to use.

Preheat the oven to 165 C. Remove the short ribs from the fridge and pat them dry with kitchen towels. Soak the mushrooms in the boiling water in a small bowl for 10 minutes or until they are reconstituted and plump.

Heat the oil on medium-high heat in a large frying pan. Place the short ribs in the hot pan and brown them for 3-4 minutes on all sides, turning with tongs until golden all over. Remove the ribs and place them in a braising or casserole dish that is large enough to accommodate all the meat comfortably in a single layer.

Scatter the onions, bay leaves, and the mushrooms and their soaking liquid around the ribs and season generously with the black pepper. Pour over the beer and place the dish in the oven uncovered. Braise the ribs in the oven for 2 hours or until the meat is very tender and falling off the bone.

Remove the ribs from the oven and prop up one side of the braising dish up so that it rests at an angle. (I usually use an oven glove folded in half under one side) This will allow the fat to collect to one side making it easier to skim off.  Leave to rest for about 5 minutes, then skim off any excess fat that has collected. Leave the ribs to cool for another 20 minutes or until they are handleable.

Meanwhile make the fries by placing the cut potatoes in a bowl and cover with cold water. Leave the potatoes to soak for 15 minutes, then drain and rinse several times to remove all excess starch. Dry the potatoes with kitchen roll or in a salad spinner until they are completely dry.

Heat the vegetable oil to 165C in a deep pot or wok. Deep fry the potatoes in small batches for 2 1/2 minutes, then remove and drain on a rack lined with kitchen roll.

Increase the heat of the oil to 190C and fry the potatoes a second time in batches for a further 4-7 minutes or until crisp and golden. Drain the potatoes on clean kitchen roll, then divide the fries between wide, shallow bowls and sprinkle with sea salt.

Using 2 forks, pull the rib meat off the bones and shred it with the forks. Discard the bones and stir the meat around so that it is well moistened by the sauce. Spoon a generous amount of the shredded ribs with the accompanying sauce over the fries and scatter generously with the cheese.

Some of the fries will soak up the poutine sauce and become soggy, and some will poke out defiantly and stay crispy. That is exactly the point. Welcome to the joys of poutine.

Next recipe…

Jennifer Klinec from Eat Drink Talk has kindly agreed to provide Urban Junkies readers with mouthwatering recipes and foodtips.

To learn more, classes at Eat Drink Talk are held in Jennifer's beautiful loft in Clerkenwell, packed with information and useful tips, and you'll get to sample all of the delicious dishes prepared during class.

 

by JK

In collaboration with Eat Drink Talk

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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.