EAT & DRINK

Originally published on Wednesday, 01 October 2008

The Fat Lady Sings

And then, apparently it’s all over. Wander through Covent Garden Market when the opera crew is in full force, and you begin to appreciate the reality of the proverb. And if it’s not her, it’s the plump, bearded Fakerotti. Or the thin scowling lady with the big lungs.

Think ‘real opera’, and you think elegance, opulence, and an inconvenient amount of time spent in your theatre seat. So why on Earth would you make a concept restaurant out of either experience? A Hard Rock Café with a dash of Wagner in place of the Hard Rock?

Well, if you were to marry the traditional opera experience – the draped red velvet curtains, the heaving bodices, the gilt swirls and furiously immense emotions – with a lavish French menu that’s a welcome improvement on its occasionally under-delivering Parisian sister resto, then you’d end up with Bel Canto .

And as you settle into your pan-fried rum baba with thyme and vanilla bourbon ice-cream, and the fat lady starts singing, just remember to leave a tip. It’s that or she’s back on the streets of Covent Garden, singing for her dinner. And winter is coming.

Bel Canto : Minster Ct, Mark La, EC3R 7AA • Lunch 12-3pm • Supper 7pm-2am
 

 

by AC

Comments:

Only registered users can write comments!

Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.

 

ALSO IN EAT & DRINK

  • New Kid on the Butcher’s Block

    Now, when I was a sprog, deli’s were rare and homely joints. Yet, when Fernandez and Wells rocked up, the homely deli-style collided at full pelt with the foam-perfect café and female-friendly wine-bar, all wrapped in a modern shabby-chic wrapper. And we lapped it up. And now the Salt Yard guys are getting in on the scene too.

     

  • Bringing Homely Back

    Give most restaurant critics or discerning foodies an undressed wooden table, a tumbler of wine and a hunk of something well-hung and you're laughing. Forget Michelin stars: on the food scene, ‘rustic’ is back.

  • Wasabi and Roast Garlic Mash

    This mash recipe comes from my Asian Fusion class which I teach a few times a year. We serve it with racks of lamb that have been rubbed with a Chinese-inspired honey and sesame marinade and the combination is incredibly delicious.

     

  • Chorizo and Parsley Mash

    I tend to think of this recipe as ‘guy mash’. Brightly coloured with big flecks of chorizo and parsley, this is the antithesis of those smooth, wimpy purees. I like to serve this with a nice piece of roast halibut but it is also delicious just eaten straight out of the bowl - preferably while watching football and wearing mismatched socks.

  • Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes

    I love buttermilk and am always looking for ways to use it. It has a delicious tangy flavour and adds a light and fluffy quality to just about everything you add it to.

SUBSCRIBE

get your daily fix

FORUM

Post your stuff on the new UJ Forum. Log in here