Originally published on Friday, 14th November 2008

Bringing Homely Back

Michelin-starred restaurants – in the true, cloche-lifting, ten waiters to a table, stuffed chive sense of the word – are so passé. These days, give most restaurant critics or discerning foodies an undressed wooden table, a tumbler of wine and a hunk of something well-hung or bowl of something you can eat with a spoon and you're laughing.

Canteen's pared down simplicity and well-sourced everything has, of course, been a runaway success from the get-go - to prove it they're opening their third branch on Baker Street in a couple of weeks. While on an Italian note, a new arrival that looks set to be a bit of a comfort food mecca is Lena on Great Eastern Street, which opens today.

And in chichi South Ken, Matt Hermer has just opened his second Bumpkin 'for city folk who like a little country living'. But don't be put off if you've earmarked it as Sloane Ranger territory. Okay, there may be a few cord-wearers, but the food is seriously good – Staunton black pudding with leeks and Heritage apples is pure satisfaction on a plate – and the Cotes-du-Rhone, Chateau Courac is dangerous.

Who said you can't do nursery food and live on the edge?

Canteen - 55 Baker Street, W1U 8EW • 0845 686 1122
Lena - 66 Great Eastern Street, EC2A 3JT • 020 7739 5714
Bumpkin - 102 Old Brompton Road, SW7 3RD • 020 7341 0802

by SL