A Triple-Cooked Chip Off The Old Block

It's pretty brave of Ben Maschler to open his own place. Certain critics were always going to be poised, eager to put the son of Britain's most respected restaurant critic in his place. But the truth is, whether he's had advice from Fay or just used his own considerable experience with Soho House and Geronimo Inns, The Draper's Arms – the pub that he and Nick Gibson have recently taken over – is shaping up nicely.

Although the chef, perhaps predictably, is ex-St John, it's not nearly as nose-to-tail as some are making out. So while there are indeed offerings like devilled duck hearts on toast, there are also a handful of classics like the roast chicken, aioli and watercress sandwich, along with nostalgic puds like ginger beer float and plans for 'a really good burger'.

The pub itself has a  saloon-like feel – the doors opening directly onto the bar with seating either side – and there’s an elegant high-ceilinged dining-room upstairs. But the best bit is the little garden at the back, providing a welcome oasis from the hum of Upper Street.

So be nice, bitter and twisted food hacks – the boys have done good. And we're not just saying that because we know Fay reads UJ.

The Draper's Arms - 44 Barnsbury Street, N1 1ER * 020 7619 034

by SL

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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.