Eat & Drink
Originally published on Tuesday, 15th December 2009
Ten Best New Restaurants of 2009
Restaurateurs braced themselves for a rocky ride this year but then something strange happened. Sure, a few restaurants died – Cha Cha Moon at Whiteley’s is, sadly, no more and, even more shockingly, St Albans announced it was closing its doors for good on Christmas Eve – but there were also a number of very successful openings in the capital. Mostly from experienced leaders in their field but also with several first-timers in the mix, these launches just go to show that, when times are tough, we still need to treat ourselves occasionally.
So from deepest East to furthest West (with a few jaunts North and South for good measure), slick, shiny, buzzy new hotspots: we applaud you!
From East to West:
Boundary
Address: 2-4 Boundary Street, E2 7JE / 020 7729 1051
Website: www.theboundary.co.uk
Gawd bless Sir Terence; he very rarely gets it wrong. After a notable absence from restaurants he came back with this on-the-button gastrodrome incorporating Albion café, the swish Boundary restaurant and, my favourite bit, the Rooftop bar and grill – home to Terence’s own Elephant humidor. And then there are the rooms of course, complete with views of grime-chic Shoreditch. Once Again, Sir Conran has proved he understands what makes Londoners tick.
Pizza East
Address: 56 Shoreditch High Street, E1 6JJ / 020 7729 1888
Website: www.pizzaeast.com
The bare brickwork, the cosy scrubbed wood, the sprawling, loftlike space and low lighting: Nick Jones’ pizzeria is a winner even before you try the food. A vast improvement on the T Bar that existed here before, and the puffy, wood-fired pizzas – not to mention some lively antipasti, like clams with tomato, chili and pecorino – aren’t too shabby either. There’s also a rather lovely deli attached that I’m going to model my kitchen on one day.
Galvin La Chapelle
Address: St Botolph’s Hall, 35 Spital Square, E1 6DY / 020 7299 0400
Website: www.galvinrestaurants.com
Bringing a bit of full-on glamour to East London, the fabulous Galvin brothers (and several other members of the family) have lavished all their attention on this their latest venture. The high-ceilinged premises give The Wolseley, Chris Galvin’s former base, a run for its money and the bistro deluxe classics served are reassuringly Galvin-ised – though straying off the £24.50 set menu can be expensive. For a more modest bite, there’s always the attached Cafe de Luxe…
Eastside Inn
Address: 40 St John Street, EC1M 4AY / 020 7490 9230
Website: www.esilondon.com
Everyone whooped with joy when Bjorn van der Horst opened this two-sided dining experience, and that was before they ate there. In the Bistro bit there are hearty, slow-cooked dishes like braised beef with honey-roast carrots and parsnips and in the Restaurant (capital ‘R’ for fine-dining) there are fancier things like Bjorn’s signature foie gras with espresso syrup and amaretto foam. Take your pick!
Drapers Arms
Address: 44 Barnsbury Street, N1 1ER / 020 7619 0348
Website: www.thedrapersarms.com
Fay Maschler’s son Ben and business partner Nick Gibson have poured their hearts into this venture, and you can tell. Enjoy a wee dram in the cosy ground-floor bar, and earthy, seasonal dishes like razor clams, cucumber, parsley and red onion salad or pot-roast guinea fowl, prunes and red cabbage in the elegant first-floor dining room. And the little garden at the back is a delight when the weather permits.
Downstairs at Terroirs
Address: 5 William IV Street, WC2N 4DW / 020 7036 0660
Website: www.terroirswinebar.com
This wine bar serving European tapas was an instant hit when it opened a couple of years ago and I must have been the only restaurant-lover in London who hadn’t made it in until the basement opened last month. Suffice to say, I am smitten. Feeling like a little gem your parents might have discovered in the Sixties, it’s unpretentious, the staff know their stuff and each little plate or board that arrives is better than the one before.
Polpo
Address: 41 Beak Street, W1F 9SB / 020 7734 4479
Website: www.polpo.co.uk
Ex-Caprice charmer Russell Norman has made this Venetian bacaro in the heart of Soho the current place to be. Its shabby chic style, relaxed but efficient service and general bonhomie is the perfect setting to enjoy little plates of pork belly, radicchio and hazelnuts and the like, washed down with an Aperol or two. Bob Bob Ricard over the road, which was fun for fifteen minutes, now seems awfully gauche in comparison.
HIX
Address: 66-70 Brewer Street, W1F 9TR / 020 7292 3518
Website: www.hixsoho.co.uk
Cheekily sliding into the former Soho premises of Japanese restaurant Aaya, Mark Hix has well and truly made them his own. Our love for Mark’s Bar – the downstairs enclave of this recently opened establishment – is already well-known, but the ground floor dining room is pretty wonderful too. Feast on Hix’s sturdy modern British classics, art appreciation and people-watching. And go late to see the place at its best.
Dean Street Townhouse
Address: 69-71 Dean Street, W1D 4QJ / 020 7434 1775
Website: www.deanstreettownhouse.com
Nick Jones and Richard Caring certainly have a knack for décor. The country club chic of this hotel restaurant, with its red leather banquettes and modern art-strewn walls, is very appealing; and the lighting in the evening might just be the best in London. The menu, too, is pleasingly simple from posh Scotch eggs to fish and chips, with sherry trifle for pud – but it could do with taking up a notch or two. I will be back very soon to check on its progress…
The Draft House
Address: 94 Northcote Road, SW11 6QW / 020 7924 1814
Website: www.drafthouse.co.uk
Another hit from Charlie McVeigh, partner in Cafe Anglais, owner of the Westbridge and co-founder of the much-loved Woody’s of bygone Notting Hill days. Specialising in quality beer and no-nonsense food – think potted crab, steak sandwiches and warm Bramley and olive oil cake – its low-key vibe and attentive staff have already made this former Pitcher & Piano a local Battersea favourite.
