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EAT & DRINK

Originally published on Monday, 15 March 2010

Apron For Hire

apron for hire

James Ramsden’s Secret Larder and The Hackney Pearl’s monthly supper club pay us a visit

‘Limited edition’. Stamp those words on any product or event and it becomes instantly desirable. Hence pop-ups. But striking the balance between creativity, cost and satisfaction is rather tougher.

So while the idea of curating chefs may not be the newest, the notion of an affordable weekly-ish dinner for a cosy 16, operating from a North London lounge-cum-gallery (like The Pale Blue Door, only less bizarre) fills us with a kind of relieved hope. The Secret Larder is hosted by chef/artist siblings James and Mary Ramsden, offering enticing dishes like cider-braised pork knuckle. And as an added bonus, they’ve got the girls behind the fleeting Hart and Fuggle pop-up to host/cook at the end of April, hopefully beginning a series of guest-chefs and curators.

Which brings us neatly to the trend for ‘chefs for hire’. With guaranteed covers (and thus income), no set-up fee, and the freedom to conjure a unique and fabulous menu for the occasion – it’s strange that the practice isn’t more common.

At East London’s local Hackney Pearl, its forthcoming last-Thursday-of-the-month dinners invite hot, up-and-coming chefs (first up is Blake Bowden, formerly of St. John) to put together a fun, inspired three-course menu that won’t break the bank. It’s limited edition cuisine certainly – but in a proper venue, with a real kitchen, and an actual bar. Which saves him on regular menus; the venue on empty mid-week nights; and us on the choice between same-old-same-old or BYO Oddbins screw-tops for the unpredictable pop-up. So everyone’s a winner. 

INFO
The Secret Larder
Launches March 25, future events April 8, 22 & 29
£25 per head

The Hackney Pearl’s Guest Chefs
Launches March 18, every third Thursday of the month thereafter
£24 per head
The Hackney Pearl, 11 Prince Edward Road, E9 5LX
 

by AC

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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.

 
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