Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 17th May 2012
Stuart Gillies Q&A
After training in the UK, Stuart Gillies made his mark on the global culinary scene with stints in Rome, Stockholm and New York. On his return to the UK, Stuart joined Le Caprice prior to working with Gordon Ramsay Restaurants, where he took up the helm at The Boxwood Café. Today, Stuart is MD of Gordon Ramsay Restaurants, whose most recent opening is Bread Street Kitchen.
How did your career in the food and drink industry begin and what was it that drew you to the industry initially?
My brother was a chef years ago. I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do so he suggested I try it, as he thought I might like the teamwork and energy of the kitchen environment. I instantly loved working with food, even though I hadn’t had a foodie upbringing at all with my Glaswegian parents.
What is your favourite thing about working in the industry now?
The fact that it keeps evolving and is full of young energetic talent who love it as much as I do.
What do you think it is about the experience your guests have at Bread Street Kitchen that has made it so popular?
Bread Street delivers an overall experience for the guest and is a fantastic looking venue. It has something for everyone, including live music at weekends as part of our Lazy Loaf all day brunch on Sundays.
How do you think taste interacts with other senses and emotions to make people like / dislike certain food or drink experiences?
Food and taste are often dependent on personal emotions, which is why the overall experience at a restaurant is so important.
Visual appeal, texture, smell: all of these are crucial in the enjoyment of food or drink. Many people dislike certain tastes, but I have often realised that this is only because that taste has been badly used in a previous experience - they actually like the ingredient.
Can you tell us about your earliest memories of taste?
Growing up, the most memorable moments of taste were things like rhubarb from the garden dipped in sugar, bread pudding with vanilla, angel delight! I think as a kid growing up in the 70s there were always amazing sweets which you dreamed about and when you see or try them now they take you straight back to being a child, which I think is fascinating and great fun. We do a butterscotch and whiskey mousse at Bread Street Kitchen which always tastes like butterscotch angel delight to me.
What is the best / worst taste experience you’ve ever had?
There are so many best taste experiences but the very best has to be the tarragon pellet to cleanse your palate at El Bulli years ago, followed by a caipirinha that they made at your table with liquid nitrogen and served in a frozen carved out lime: an amazing combination of taste and theatre.
How do you think your taste preferences and your personal taste profile have evolved as you have grown up, and are they still changing?
I think personal taste goes in phases for everyone... sometimes it takes a food 'moment' to wake up people's senses and set them on a new path. I'm the same as everyone else as I taste things on occasions which make me re-think my favourite tastes, however I am strongly influenced by the season and location also.
How important do you think it is to understand taste and the way the different elements of taste interact when ordering food and drink?
The more people understand taste combinations the better, but it takes a lot of trial and error. The wine test with one glass of wine and five different foods, from lemon to cheese to chocolate, is always fascinating as it completely changes the flavour each time, not in the glass but on your palate, which just shows you how delicate taste is.
Of the five elements of taste, which do you think are the most important?
I don't think any element of taste is more important than another as each has its part to play, people like some more than others but that is just a personal thing.
What can guests at Taste By Appointment look forward to learning from you?
Anyone coming along to try this with me will learn that the rules are very broad and that it all comes down to personal taste. Just look at the unusual combinations at different restaurants these days: chocolate and tobacco, foie gras and coffee...
What is your favourite Grey Goose cocktail?
Grey Goose Espresso Martini – every time.
Info
Taste By Appointment is taking place at venues across London. To book Taste By Appointment at Century or other upcoming events click here. Select venues (*marked below) are also offering exclusive three-course meals at a special price for Taste By Appointment ticket holders.
May 22: Bread Street Kitchen, St Paul’s*
May 26: Century, Soho
May 31: The Artesian, Marylebone
June 17: The Savoy, Strand
July 1: Hakkasan, Fitzrovia*
July 2: Rhodes Twenty Four, The City*
July 11: Quo Vadis, Soho*
