Eat & Drink
Originally published on Monday, 11th February 2013
THE BRASSERIE REVIVAL
Brasserie Blanc this is not
The rebirth of the brasserie has been brewing for some time now. It all started with Zédel and Colbert last year, and now it’s in full swing with some new heavyweight contenders.
The name on everyone’s lips at the moment is obviously the magical, mystical Balthazar. Their on-site Boulangerie opened yesterday (there’s also one in Waterloo) but the official opening date of the restaurant is still on the DL, though we do have confirmation that the booking line opens at the end of the week. Much like its New York mother, the décor will be classical and the all-day menu (including afternoon tea by an ex-Ritz pastry chef) French bistro-inspired, but with a British edge. As long as the frisée aux lardons make the transfer, we’re happy. And then, of course, there’s the bar, which is sure to be Covent Garden’s latest elbow-rubbing place to see and be seen.
Over in Mayfair, Eric Chavot – the two Michelin-starred stalwart who headed The Capital Restaurant for a decade – opens the eponymous Brasserie Chavot at The Westbury hotel this month. His “pimped out” take on the brasserie includes banquettes, a five-seater seafood counter, bar and a menu that moves away from his Michelin alma mater. There’ll be no fruits de mer platters, for instance; instead, look for modern offerings like king crab mayo, cured salmon and soft shell crab.
Arkady Novikov is taking the “brasserie-with-a-twist” concept one step further at Brompton Asian Brasserie by Novikov, opening next month. This shouldn’t come as a surprise – the original Novikov is an Asian/Italian hybrid from Russia. Expect a European breakfast followed by Asian for lunch and dinner. There’ll also be Grocer by Novikov next door, with take-home offerings and even a dim sum counter.
We digress. The best bit about the return of the brasserie? You can book.
Info
Balthazar Boulangerie, now open, 8 Russell Street, WC2B 5HZ
Balthazar, booking line opens February 16, 4-6 Russell Street, WC2B 5HZ
Brasserie Chavot, now taking bookings, opens mid-February, 41 Conduit Street, W1S 2YF
Brompton Asian Brasserie by Novikov, opens March, 223-225 Brompton Road, SW3 2EJ
