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Eat & Drink

Originally published on Monday, 25th February 2013

THE BILBAO BUZZ

THE BRASSERIE REVIVAL

Basque cuisine is king
 

Spanish food in London is nothing new. Sure, we have our fair share of authentic pizzazz – Barrafina, Pizarro, Brindisa, José and Bar Tozino, to name a few – but now joining the likes of Basque go-tos Pix and Donostia are two big openings.

Arzak, San Sebastian’s legendary three Michelin-starred restaurant (often hailed as best in the world), is going into The Halkin hotel. Headed up by Arzak owner and godfather of “New Basque Cuisine” Juan Mari Arzak, and his inimitable daughter Elena, Ametsa with Arzak Instruction is set to be just as big as the original. Expect elegant design (including a glass test-tube ceiling) and an even better menu mixing honest, regional flavours and near-scientific techniques. It’s all still being kept a secret, but if the original is anything to go by – dusted egg and mussel, ham and tomato “smoke”, strawberry soup with chocolate balloons – you can expect the unexpected.

Less haute, more traditional Basque? Australian MasterChef the Professionals winner Ash Mair is opening an outpost of popular Spanish restaurant Bilbao Berria. As the name suggests, there’ll be a casual, open-kitchen pintxos area as well as a more formal dining space with classic and modern Basque dishes. It won’t be an exact replica of the Spanish version, though, as seasonal English produce will merge with Spanish staples like piquillo peppers, artichokes, jamón and chorizo.

Drink? The Basque Country’s txakoli – pronounced chak-o-lee – is a dry, fizzy white wine always poured from shoulder height (it’s allegedly big in NY right now). Head to the aforementioned Donostia for a tumbler (they even pour it properly). Otherwise, Vagabond Wines stock it. Chin chin.

NB. We’d like the next Spanish transfer to be led by Ferran Adrià. Please.

Info
Donostia, now open, 10 Seymour Place, W1H 7ND
Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, opens March 8, The Halkin by Como, Halkin Street, SW1X 7DJ
Bilbao Berria, now taiopens Spring 2013, Lower Regent Street, W1B

by JC

 

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