Originally published on Tuesday, 18th June 2013

WHAT'S UP BEIRUT!

BEIRUT, THE PHOENICIA AND LE VENDÔME

Beirut in a sentence

History and progress collide in the tale of two cities.

About

When we were asked to go to Beirut, we immediately said yes. We've wanted to check it out for ages and knew that going with someone who knew the lay of the land would be key. Vegas isn't the new Ibiza and neither is Beirut, but this city has a charm and buzz of its own.

The Phoenicia Hotel

If you have $14k to spend a night, a suite here is what you'd pick. Boasting the best security in Beirut, the hotel features five-star accoms (that start from £184 per night) with comfortable, plush furnishings, a well-stocked mini bar (we can't be trusted after 2AM around nuts), sushi buffets, poolside champagne service and extensive spa menus. It's a monied hotspot— the Kennedys were in attendance at a wedding while we were here (weddings start from $1 mil)—but it's not all gloss. Just look out your window for reminders, such as a vacant, war-torn Holiday Inn, of the past and current strife this city faces.

Le Vendôme Hotel

The sister hotel to The Phoenicia (and more boutique of the two) has a more intimate feel, but manages to retain the same five-star service. It's closer to the water, which is preferable, and seems to have a regular clientele.

 

Dining Highlights

Momo At The Souks. Expect the usual interesting Mourad design elements (3D wallpaper in the bathroom and hidden bar here), with something extra inviting about this space — we could come here every night. The cuisine was fresh and flavoursome and dining outdoors by lamplight is always a treat. La Petite Maison at Le Vendôme was also exceptional, and we now know why the London branch is impossible to get into – UJ loved the polpo carpaccio, aubergine dish and lobster salad.

Party

All you hear about is SkyBar! White! BLVD44! These clubs are great in that they are open air, but they have more than a hint of Vegas – lights, fire, bottle service – and all play mainly Top 40. Thanks to the stylish GM at Momo, UJ was directed to 'Decks on the Beach' and were put back on track. We loved dancing on wooden planks in the sand to French beats at the old 'sporting club' that had been bombed. Drinks were inexpensive and the crowd was great. We had so much fun that we seemed to have left our clothes there (okay, just a jacket and sweater).

 

Other Things to Check Out

UJ loved wine tasting at the Ixsir vineyard (it's the altitude here that makes all the taste difference) especially the rare Cab Sauv, Tempranillo, Syrah, Caladoc blend. A stopover in Byblos was good for a walk around and meal at Pepe's Fishing Club. Shop highlights include Ginette (it reminded us a bit of Colette's lifestyle floor), Sarah's Bag, a townhouse of accessories that she makes with women in prison (this is no crafty charity case though – her champagne collection may be our favourite accessory this year), and Art on 56th for large-scale pieces in a light, bright space. There also seems to be quite a café culture here; Urbanista fuses urban design with haute coffee – this is a café we can actually get down with. The area Gemmayze, where the last three are, is definitely worth a visit, both in the day and at night. The beach clubs are worth a visit too; UJ hit up Iris for crab salad and watermelon cocktails.

 

Of Interest

We hear that there is no body governing the heritage buildings here, meaning that new buildings are rapidly replacing them. There is a movement against the developers Solidere (there's a lot of Versace-designed waterfront towers going up), but only time will tell what will happen here.

Safety

Yes, there is a Syrian war going on 60km from the border. Yes, there is military presence and our hotel had metal detectors. People talk of war daily because they have lived through it; it is very much a part of their lives. There was a protest on our last day in Beirut, and we heard tanks were moving in. We were stopped trying to go to a club by an armed guard who asked if we had our passports on us (we didn't, he didn't seem to care). Everywhere you look you are reminded of the past, but we have never met more welcoming people and would definitely – conditions permitting – go back in a heartbeat.

Info
The Phoenicia, rooms from £184 including breakfast (+10% VAT)
Le Vendôme, rooms from £200 including breakfast (+10% VAT)

by TR