Food & Drink: Restaurant Reviews

Sparrow

Ex St. John husband and wife duo's neighbourhood spot

Details

Opening hours

Mon: Closed
Tue-Fri: 6-11pm
Sat-Sun: 10-5pm, 6-11pm

Address

2 Rennell Street, Lewisham, SE13 7HD

More info

Vibe & Decor

Street Feast’s Model Market first put Lewisham on the foodie radar, and now there’s a second reason to visit. Admittedly, it’s a little far out, but developing areas need places like Model Market and Sparrow to help put them on the map. With that in mind, Sparrow pretty much defines the term neighbourhood gem. It’s cosy and unassuming, without feeling twee – there’s an open bar and kitchen and the décor is simple, it all feels incredibly welcoming.

Flavours

The menu (food, wine and cocktails) is clear and concise. There’s an ever-changing apero and cocktail of the day, and the wine-list is short, featuring some lesser known grapes and regions amongst old favourites (we recommend the Riesling). The food is a mash-up of Terry Blake and Yohini Nandakumar’s diverse culinary heritage – encompassing St. John (where they met, FYI), BAO and Pollen Street Social. Our tip would be to go for more small plates rather than the mains – the soft boiled eggs (complete with insanely umami anchovy and pork relish) and shrimp and kohlrabi salad were way punchier than our meaty mains (bang bang beef rib, pork belly).

Top Tip

Don’t over-order. 6 plates between 2 is more than enough.

Highlight

The service. One of the few spots in London where you don’t have to keep asking for your water to be topped up.

By JS

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