Articles
Originally published on Friday, 8th June 2012
Jsen Wintle Q&A
After shadowing a prominent Savile Row tailor and taking inspiration from his previous work in film set design, object and interior design, Jsen Wintle launched his eponymous menswear label Wintle in 2004. He quickly established a reputation for sophisticated masculine tailoring with a sharply modern point of view. He now splits his time between creative projects ranging from photography and filmmaking to designing restaurants.
UJ caught up with Jsen to get the lowdown on what tastes make him tick.
How would you describe your taste?
Classic, and refined in a simple and modern way. Origin, quality and simplicity are really important to me, a little like my taste for menswear and interior design. I have the good fortune to eat out and travel a great deal so I get to try tastes from every end of the scale.
Is there one restaurant that sums up your taste? And if so, why?
Wow! It’s so hard to pick one place. I eat out at least six nights a week but I guess I often seem to end up at J Sheekey. It’s the perfect combination of simplicity, high quality fish, matched with those beautiful little rooms and amazing service. Atmosphere plays a huge part in my enjoyment of a place no matter how good or bad the food is. Equally I eat a lot at the bar at Roka, and the bar at Fino for the same reasons. I’d always choose dining at a bar over a table too, so I guess it helps that these three places all have excellent dining bars.
Talking literally, what is your favourite taste? Sweet, sour, bitter, salty or umami? And why?
Salty. Definitely. I’ve not much of a sweet tooth (with the exception of the Tipsy Cake at Dinner). My favourite foods are roasted, smoked, salted almonds and massive green olives. Few places do them really well. I’ve such life long memoires around these nuts, it’s kind of odd. I’m never without a packet at close reach wherever I am. It’s also a seaside thing as I’m most happy in or right by the sea, so it’s salty all the way! I love those foods you eat fresh out of the surf, when you’re still dripping sea water over them.
How do you think your taste preferences and your personal taste profile have evolved as you have grown up, and are they still changing?
Yes I think so, if anything they have become simpler. The less ingredients the better for me. I think it comes from growing up in rural Australia where the produce was so amazing all the time. I can’t see it changing too much now, though I’m not adverse to trying new things.
How important do you think it is to understand taste and the way the different elements of taste interact when ordering food and drink?
Not at all. People overthink things. It’s why I generally have a massive aversion to Michelin restaurants, there’s too much explaining about the taste and the combinations and how to eat and drink. Let me just eat it and decide if I like the combination or understand it myself. Taste is such a highly personal thing that I think people should decide for themselves.
Where do you go to indulge?
I don’t really eat to indulge. I’ll go to places for comfort more then to indulge, and it would be my best friend's grill in Puglia for squid with fennel, huge local prawns, all washed down with copious amounts of ice cold local chardonnay that’s out of this world. All eaten with your feet in the sea, on a creaky table with a lantern, and with loads of people and kids everywhere. In London I might go for a killer burger somewhere: MEATliquor rates pretty high, I think it helps that it’s almost pitch black so you can't quite see the burger!
Where do you go to get a sweet fix?
I’ve not much of a sweet tooth but it would have to be the gelato in Puglia, in the only bar in Santa Maria de Leuca. When its 40+ outside there is a queue 40 deep lining up for the stuff, made daily on site. The pistachio is the best I've ever had.
Where have you been recently that’s got your taste buds going?
At 10 Greek Street the food is amazing. Again, it’s simple and subtle but consistently good. Sitting at the bar in the kitchen is great. Also Da Felice in Rome: a family run joint that has been there forever. The roasted baby lamb with rosemary potatoes baked in the fat was so divine we literally could not talk until it was all gone.
What taste takes you back to your childhood?
Green lipped New Zealand mussels. Collecting them on the beach with Dad at sunset, building a deep pit fire on the beach and cooking them in the seawater. Eating them from the pot: amazing. And apples. Golden Delicious apples from our orchard.
Tell us about a new taste you have experienced recently?
Cha siu pineapple buns at Tim Ho Wan in Hong Kong, a hole-in-the-wall joint in Mong Kok, were one of the best things I have ever eaten. Well worth the three hour wait for a table. Also, I had this “chocolate dust” box recently at La Pergola in Rome that was a perfect combination of sweet and salt.
What was the most memorable taste you’ve had and where was it?
Again it’s really hard to pick one. The Tipsy Cake at Dinner is a taste and texture combination that’s really hard to top. A tiny iron pot of brioche soaked in a light boozy cream with a slow spit-roasted pineapple that was part caramelized.
Where would you travel for unusual tastes and flavours?
Anywhere in Southern Italy, and all over Asia.
What flavours do you use in the kitchen at home?
I don’t use flavours as such, it’s all ingredient based, simply seasoned. I use a lot of my friend’s stunning olive oils from Puglia on everything.
What taste do you associate with celebration?
Whatever the taste of super dry champagne is.
What is your favourite Grey Goose cocktail?
Straight up, on very large rocks in a heavy bottomed glass, sometimes with lime oil from the rind.
What is your absolute favourite dish?
I can’t pin it to one. I'd say… roasted pork puffs, rice hot pot with king crab, steamed mussels in sherry, Dover Sole and Korean bibimbap.
Whose taste do you trust?
Fiona Seres, an amazing writer friend with great simple taste.
UJ connects those in the know to create a Grey Goose Tastemaker family. Follow the Q&As and discover who’s next in line...
Info
Taste By Appointment is taking place at venues across London. To book Taste By Appointment at The Gilbert Scott or other upcoming events click here. Select venues (*marked below) are also offering exclusive three-course meals at a special price for Taste By Appointment ticket holders.
June 17: The Savoy, Strand
July 1: Hakkasan, Fitzrovia*
July 2: Rhodes Twenty Four, The City*
