Style & Design
Originally published on Wednesday, 17th September 2008
Kavier-Gauche
Although the programme notes suggested Mata Hari - the pretend exotic spy who wore jewelled breastplates and strange headdresses - for this observer at least, there was more than a hint of '70s glamour to the clothes.
This season, the clever trick was layered hats: start with a tiny cluster of bows or a head-hugging fringe or minuscule fez, and then Often in caftan and drifting layered shapes, think Elizabeth Taylor in The Sandpiper, or perhaps a hostess at a poolside party on the Italian Riviera. These were romantic and grown up clothes with the ability to both reveal and disguise.
The elaborate detailing and emboidery never obscured the lines and cut of the pieces; instead it highlighted the yokes and straps, so providing a focal point. The colour palette featured eau de nil, pale daffodil yellow and softest tinted whites, like colours filtered through or faded by the sun.
Black was used for dramatic effect, rather than as a basic, and never disrupted the calm feeling of the collection. The wrapped overlayers and softly ruffled edges added to a very high summer collection which also seemed aimed at a grown up client rather than trying too hard to be edgy or funky. It totally succeeded. Watch out also for the covetable accessories which featured cascade necklaces in a variety of stones and colours alongside bold studded clutch bags.
