Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 22nd April 2010
The Mall Tavern
Notting Hill Gate gastropub that's a cut above the rest.
71-73 Palace Gardens Terrace, W8 4RU – 020 7229 3374
Location
Possibly the best in Notting Hill Gate. Just tucked away enough not to be descended on by puffa-ed up Italians wanting to know the way to ‘Portobello mercato’.
Vibe
Wasted for many years on its previous owners who didn’t realise what a gem they had, luckily the Perritt brothers (also behind The Regent and The Stag) and the immensely likeable and experienced chef Jesse Dunford Wood have got their hands on the place and, though it’s still early days, the combination is already looking very promising.
Flavours
It wouldn’t be a gastropub if the emphasis wasn’t on British but this is no run-of-the-mill menu; there are small plates (from £3) of moreish cauliflower fritters with curried mayonnaise and Welsh lamb scrumpets, with mains (from £9) running from cow pie through to a thoroughly modern ploughmans. For the full experience you can hire the chef’s table in the heart of the tavern’s kitchen.
Décor
Despite an excess of gastropub-green paint, the place has a welcoming charm, embellished by a scattering of royal wedding and coronation china and a pair of eccentric caricatures painted by Jesse’s artist father in the upstairs private dining room. And not to be overlooked is the suntrap of a garden out the back.
Upshot
Chef Jesse’s days at HIX Soho, Balthazar in New York and Charlie Trotter’s have paid off. Not only is the food especially good but Jesse knows how to run a place and is hands on with it, regularly checking to make sure everyone is happy. You might not be able to swing a cat in London without hitting a gastropub but this one might just be a keeper.
