Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 5th May 2010
Koya
Demure udon noodlerie
49 Frith Street, W1D 4SG
Location
Although this modest newcomer is in good epicurean company, with Barrafina and Arbutus nearby, despite the navy canvas-curtained entrance it’s one of those places you could easily walk by thinking it’s just another okay Soho Japanese.
Vibe
You’d have to have been telepathic to know it was opening three weeks ago. There is a no reservations policy and there currently isn’t even a phone number, just opening times on the minimal website. Based on the idea of an authentic Japanese workman’s caff, and partly inspired by the similarly low-key Kunitoraya in Paris, you can linger over shochu and small plates but generally the idea is come in, grab a bowl of noodles and go. Puddings? Pah!
Flavours
It’s all about freshly-made udon noodles, kneaded by foot on site under a plastic canvas I might add; usually to the sound of Radio 4 says owner John Devitt, a former Zafferano chef who used to run The Island in Kensal Green with Olly Daniaud. You can have the noodles hot or cold, accompanied, for instance, by prawn and vegetable tempura or pork and miso paste and supported by homemade pickles, marinated mushrooms and slices of tender duck breast.
Décor
Pretty straight forward and authentic with lots of clean, light wood, coat hooks at a practical level alongside each table and a very cool counter area at the back where you can get a closer look at what you’re about to eat.
Upshot
Fergus Henderson brought his family to dine here the other day and Polpo’s Russell Norman is a huge fan. The buzz has just begun.
