Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 12th May 2010
Gauthier SohoKoya
Revived Soho Institution
21 Romilly Street, W1D 5AF - 020 7494 3111
Location
When Richard Corrigan moved from this stately Georgian townhouse to open Corrigan’s in Mayfair a couple of years ago, there were a few theatrical foodie gasps proclaiming the end of Soho’s fine dining institutions was nigh. So the arrival of former Roussillon’s Alexis Gauthier should have them drying their eyes.
Vibe
Before Rousillon, Gauthier worked under Alain Ducasse at the Hotel de Paris in Monaco and has consulted for Mark Birley, so it’s no surprise that his new establishment will offer ‘resolutely French cuisine and classic service’. But this is Soho, not Pimlico (where Rousillon is), and certainly not Monaco, so ‘expect a few tattoos and piercings’ amongst the staff, says Gauthier in his blogspot.
Flavours
If you’re looking for rich, creamy sauces and gout-giving grub, look elsewhere. Gauthier is famous for his fresh Nicoise flavours, with an emphasis on ‘les legumes’, so there’s broad beans and thyme with olive oil tart and quails eggs to start and smoked, salted wild sea bass with white asparagus, Melba toasts and cepes mushrooms as a main. Sommelier Roberto della Pietra (also from Rousillon) is on board, too, so expect exceptional wines, 32 of them by the glass
Décor
As you would expect for a French gaff, things are neutrally tasteful. Although one of the two private dining rooms, which has its own lounge area, has been christened ‘The Games Room’ and is decked out with vintage posters and slot machines, so is a little more colourful. There is also a wine shop and tasting room on the ground floor.
Upshot
Somewhere to linger over serious cooking and fine French wines, with three small courses at £27 you could afford to go for a light treat and not break the bank, but the 12 course tasting menu at £70 is the real deal.
