Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 19th May 2010
Bar Boulud
Smart French bistro meets burger bar
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA - 020 7201 3899
www.mandarinoriental.com/london
Location
This prime chunk of Knightsbridge real estate has attracted some of gastronomy’s greats. Marco Pierre White reigned supreme and won his third Michelin star here when it was the Hyde Park Hotel, and now Daniel Boulud is ensconced in the bar-bistro, with Heston moving into the posh bit by Dec (so I’m told by the doorman).
Vibe
Boulud’s reputation precedes him. He’s kind of a big deal to Americans who have adopted the Lyonnaise chef as one of their own, so it’s all very exciting that he’s opened in London.
Flavours
Although I’m not the biggest terrine-lover, even I have to admit that it’s all about the haute charcuterie here – from tender, layered slices of pate grand-pere (course cut with foie gras, port and truffle juice) to silky ribbons of jambon de Bayonne. And the burgers; try the Frenchie, topped with confit pork belly and morbier cheese. Vegetarians should probably focus on the tip-top wine list, cheese and freshly-baked madeleines, but there’s a good choice of fish and seafood for those who like swimmy things.
Décor
Herein lies the slight problem. You walk in and the place feels luxey and cosseting at first, but be sure to book a table overlooking the kitchen as this will distract you from the - there’s no easy way to put this – slightly naf decor. The furniture could be MFI, the banquettes nicked from a cross channel ferry and the black and white prints on the wall pilfered from Cafe Rouge. Seriously, they need to get Nick Jones’ design people to come and sort it out.
Upshot
Dodgy interior aside, Bar Boulud fills the gap in London for a posh burger bar- come-bistro; there’s a great atmosphere in the kitchen side of the restaurant and you could probably grab a non-boozy lunch here for around £30 and feel pretty spoilt.
