Originally published on Wednesday, 7th July 2010

The Phene

Bestie’s old boozer gets a sexy revamp

9 Phene Street, SW3 5NY - 020 7352 9898 -  www.thephene.com

Location

Originally built in 1853 by Dr John Samuel Phene, an antiquarian and avid tree-planter, this tucked away public house became even more legendary as the preferred hangout of the late ball-kicking lothario George Best.

Vibe

With glam new land-lady Lily Bourne at the helm, the old place has been considerably tarted up, with the St Tropez-style terrace out front fast becoming filled with fresh fruit cocktail-loving Chelsea blondes and their cohorts.

Flavours

For something a little more substantial choose from an eclectic menu that includes fish and chips and a subtly spicy orange chicken curry – Lily’s parents Sally Greene and Robert Bourne own Cheyne Walk Brasserie down the road, as well as Ronnie Scott’s and other London landmarks, so she’s had some good examples to draw from - while at the bar there are Breton ciders and some well chosen wines. 

Décor

With its combination of jazz-club lighting and banquettes in the ‘saloon’ and silver flock wallpaper and deep plum furnishings in the upstairs lounge-cum-boutique (where Lily London frocks designed by Bourne are on display) this is not your average gastropub. There’s even a deli in the back where you can grab freshly made salads, Monmouth coffee and cakes.

Upshot

Yes, it’s all very Chelsea but the precocious Miss Bourne has a hawk’s eye for detail; she’s created an organic signature-scented ‘Phene’ candle with Neom that’s sold in the deli and has bigger plans ahead. Richard Caring, watch your back.

by SL