Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 21st July 2010
Bistro DéLICAT
Austrian bistro arrives in Northcote Village
124 Northcote Road, SW11 6QU - 020 7924 3566
www.bistrodelicat.com
Location
Despite having something of a foodie reputation, for a long time (well, at least for the five years that I’ve lived nearby) the Northcote Road in Battersea has lacked a stylish brasserie that’s not overrun with under-fives or twenty-something drinkers on the lash. The initial signs for this Viennese-inspired newcomer filling that gap are good.
Vibe
Affable Austrian co-owner and frontman Erik Ammer – whose background is in Ritz-Carlton hotels and Formula One catering – and his team have done a splendid job creating this smart yet laidback kaffeehaus-style hangout that has a touch of McNally about it (bringing to mind Schiller’s on the Lower East Side in New York).
Flavours
Along with classic beef consomme and wiener schnitzel there are lighter, more lunch-friendly options of beetroot, French bean and pomegranate or grilled vegetable and goats cheese salad (done really well) plus croque monsieur and apple strudel if you only want a snack – they even serve proper Naber Kaffee coffee more commonly found in Vienna’s cafes.
Décor
Simply but cleverly decked out by 10.2 architects in white brick tiles at the front and glossy black ones at the back, so you can plump for bright and airy or more cosy, depending on your mood, the time of day, weather etc. Pendulum lighting and newspapers on sticks complete the modern bistro look.
Upshot
Delicat (the name is an abbreviation of delicatessen) has certainly had the weather on its side since it opened two weeks ago, its outside tables currently particularly popular. The service is friendly and efficient and the feel thoroughly European - I’m looking forward to dining here on less balmy days too.
