Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 25th August 2010
Tinello
A Tuscan treat in Pimlico
87 Pimlico Road, SW1W 8PH - 020 7730 3663
www.tinello.co.uk
Location
Pimlico can get a bad rap for being posh but, personally, I like its slightly starched and discreet foodie charm so was excited that this newcomer was filling the space L’Incontro once occupied.
Vibe
Max and Federico Sali, the brothers behind the restaurant, both worked with Giorgio Locatelli for ten years (Signore L and his wife, Plaxy, are backing their new project) so they have a fair amount of know-how between them to make this little place work; Tinello means the dining area in a family kitchen and that’s about the size of the place – just 45 covers.
Flavours
You could do very nicely on a selection of the small plates prepared by chef Federico – soft-textured salami, chicken livers and summer truffle on toast (at just £1.90) and burrata and tomato bread – but you’d be missing out on one of the best ricotta (and Swiss chard) ravioli I’ve ever had (possibly down to the utterly buttery sauce) and a cracking brill with borlotti beans and clams which transported me to the Tuscan coast. Max was formerly head wine-buyer at Locanda Locatelli so it’s reassuring being in his large, expert hands.
Décor
There’s bare brickwork and chicken wire cupboards – so far, so rustic – but low-hanging workshop-chic lighting gives the place a contemporary edge and a restful, almost cinematic atmosphere – think The Godfather, in a good way, not a horse’s head in your bed way.
Upshot
Well-positioned tables, low-lighting, warm service, ‘fatto in casa’-tasting food and reasonable prices for this area (no pasta was over £10 the night we visited) make this a most welcoming spot.
