Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 1st September 2010
Polpetto
A mini Polpo above the French House
49 Dean Street, W1D 5BG - 020 7734 1969
www.polpetto.co.uk
Location
You can’t get more old-school Soho bohemia than the site for Russell Norman’s diminutive new dining room above the famed French House pub. Originally opened as a gin parlour in the mid 19th century, it’s also where Fergus Henderson cooked in the Nineties, pre-St John, so its food chops aren’t too shabby either.
Vibe
There’s something to be said for a restaurant that you can take in at just one glance and, with only 28 seats, Polpetto is perfectly formed - especially if you’re the type who’s nosy about what’s on everyone else’s plate. Unsurprisingly there’s no room for a bar but you can follow in the unsteady footsteps of Dylan Thomas and Francis Bacon and get your fill of liquid refreshment downstairs.
Flavours
While Polpetto is a little shabby-chic diamond in its own right, it also serves as a handsome overflow for its only slightly larger, yet still rip-roaringly successful, sibling restaurant Polpo as the menu is a continuation of Italian bacari (wine bar) bites. There are rustic chicheti of polpetti (baby octopus), of course, bruschette of stracchino, fennel salami and fig plus substantially larger dishes of osso buco and pigeon saltimbocca. Nothing is prissy or overworked; it’s good, simple, Mediterranean grub, served by the delightful Daniel, Carmen and other groovy young things.
Décor
Satisfyingly rough around the edges but with stylish touches like the French 19th century light fittings and mirrors made from reclaimed church windows, the place feels more ‘rustic coaching inn meets NY speakeasy’ than jewel box, and is all the better for it.
Upshot
Go during the day (when you can book) and enjoy seductively seedy views of Dean Street comings and goings, or tootle along in the evening (when it’s first come, first served) and submerge yourself in the twinkling, low-lit atmosphere of one of Soho’s most venerated establishments, past and present.
