Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 29th September 2010
Tudor Road
Hackney’s hottest supperclub
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Location
A congruously industrial looking building in Hackney is home to this intimate gathering held, every evening from Wednesday to Saturday, in the candlelit kitchen-cum-dining room of bright young chef Ben Greeno.
Vibe
Greeno cooked at Copenhagen institution Noma and with Sat Bains in Nottingham and Nuno Mendes in London before he started hosting these cosy five course dinners for twelve. If you’ve never supperclubbed before be prepared to socialise, it’d be rude not to. And it’s BYO, but the nearby Bottle Apostle usually have a copy of that night’s menu so can help advise you on which wines will go best.
Flavours
This is not, thank goodness, the kind of supperclub where you’ll be served bog standard shepherd’s pie that you could have done a better job of at home. Greeno comes from a stable of chefs who like to explore the undiscovered and pair the unexpected, so there could be mackerel sashimi with emulsion of mussels and lemon cucumbers or slow-cooked eggs with parson’s nose, tender pine shoots and all manner of home-made pickles. All delectable.
Décor
Homely and low-key. Pre-dinner drinks are imbibed around a groovy kitchen workstation
with drawers made from wine crates, or on the spacious roof terrace if the weather’s fine, after which everyone adjourns to a rustic communal table to munch on freshly baked bread with nasturtium-petal butter.
Upshot
You may not feel fit to burst when you leave Tudor Road – this is about quality, not quantity –
but you should be feeling wholly satisfied (at £35 a head, going up to £40 from 11 Oct, it won’t break the bank) and might even have made a few new friends. And Greeno’s plans for a ‘proper’ restaurant (not, apparently, on these shores) are coming together, so go before you miss your chance.
