Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 21st October 2010
Blacks
Bacchanalian Sunday lunching at old-school Soho members club
67 Dean Street, W1D 4QH - 020 7287 3381
Location
Founded in 1992 by Giuseppe Mascoli (also owner of Franco Manca pizza pitstops) Blacks club in Soho oozes history. Formerly a tea-rooms frequented by Samuel Johnson and other 18th century London literati it now attracts a no less louche crowd.
Vibe
Dim and cavernous with flickering candles and the scent of roast lamb, rum and debauchery in the air, Blacks is one of the most atmospheric members clubs in London, so Mascoli’s idea to start a series of indulgent, seven-course Bacchanalian Sunday lunches, prepared by guest chefs such as Tom Parker Bowles, Rose Prince and others, is a fitting one.
Flavours
This coming Sunday (24 Oct) restaurant critic and chef Bill Knott takes to the stove with Mascoli to conjur up partridge en escabeche, venison pie, chartreuse and green apple sorbet and other delights, while on 21 Nov, food writer Rose Prince brings her expertise to the kitchen along with potted crab and rabbit terrine, roast and confit pheasant and toffee milk pudding from her new book, Kitchenella. Rare, organic and bio-dynamic wines will also be on offer.
Décor
Shabby-chic Georgian grandeur with more than a touch of baroque or ‘Hogarth meets Dickens’ as Bill Knott describes it – either way, you get the picture. There aren’t many places left in London, let alone Soho, quite like this.
Upshot
Blacks has always done things in its own eccentric way so their Sunday lunches promise to be unlike any other. There are still a few places left for the next one but if you miss your chance book for the one after. £35 per place excluding wine.
From now until the end of December, Urban Junkies readers can receive access to private members club, Blacks Soho by quoting 'Urban Junkies' when making a reservation. Reservations must be made in advance by calling 020 7287 3381. Upon visiting, additional membership offers will be made available exclusively to Urban Junkies readers..
