Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 4th November 2010
Les Deux Salons
Modern brasserie deluxe dining comes to Covent Garden
40-42 William IV Street, WC2N 4DD - 020 7420 205
www.lesdeuxsalons.co.uk
Location
It’s a funny little spot, the knee crease between Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden that this much-hyped newcomer sits on. Terroirs, opposite, has already made it an unlikely destination, and helped attract a new set to the area, so my guess is that this brasserie of sorts can only add to the appeal.
Vibe
Anthony Demetre and Will Smith have already impressed London diners with Wild Honey and Arbutus, their USP being a modern, relaxed take on white tablecloth dining at prices that don’t make you wince (too much) when you peer at the bill. Their new baby is a more ambitious enterprise that, from first impressions, could be described as La Coupole meets Balthazar.
Flavours
Rather than featuring the usual French fare, the menu reflects modern London’s increasingly sophisticated tastes. So there’s a very Smith & Demetre bavette of Scottish beef with shallot sauce, in its own copper pan, and a quinoa, broccoli and preserved lemon salad that could be inspired by a dish from Moro. There are also retro puds like rum baba that seem to be getting people very excited, but I was quite happy with the ‘ravioli’ of rose veal wrapped around cavolo nero and goat’s curd. That, and an utterly buttery potato puree.
Décor
Designer of the moment Martin Brudnizki has done a spot-on job, turning this former Pitcher & Piano into a movie-perfect rendition of a Parisian brasserie, from the copper-topped bar to the soft globe lighting and mottled mirrors to maroon mohair banquettes.
Upshot
Considering it’s billed as a brasserie my only real quibble is that it’s a shame there’s no all-day menu. Having said that, it’s great to see Smith and Demetre turning their hand to something more glam but still keeping the prices pleasing. I’m looking forward to trying a slice of this shimmering Parisian chicness in the evening.
