Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 2nd December 2010
Brasa
Rustic British fare hits Fulham in an NYC style loft.
474-476 Fulham Broadway, SW6 1BY - 020 7610 3137
www.brasalondon.com
Location
With the meaty eatery trend hitting full force (Hawksmoor, Barbecoa), we’re adding another morsel to our hit-list. Sure, a jaunt to Fulham Broadway with its all-in-one tube station cum cinema cum shopping centre might not be high on your weekend’s to-do list, but persevere a little down the road and you’ll find Brasa (literally translated as ‘Live Coal’) sitting on top of The Broadway Bar & Grill. Jump in for a long, lazy Sunday lunch or a fire-branded dinner cooked on the Spanish Asador Grill. ?
Vibe
Brenhan McGee (former owner and operator of Soho’s Club Bar & Dining and various other London ventures) is behind this new dining room, and his passion is palpable. There’s a laid-back New York loft feel to the long lean room, punctuated by a beautiful marble bar manned by staff who are enthusiastic and knowledgeable but nowhere near pushy. We found three hours flew by without any awkward pauses between courses or rushed service.
Flavours
Head Chef Danny MacGechan has stints with Marco Pierre White and Paradise by Kensal Green under his belt; as such the menu is all classic grill fare and timeless Brit favourites executed with a little rustic flair. Tear into a bowl of bread (possibly the best we’ve tasted in a good long while) with olive oil and warm, juicy tomatoes to share, before moving on to potted rabbit and ham hock for starters, a main roster of roasts from lamb to chicken with a cracking gourmet cheeseburger alternate, and desserts like tarte tatin and a beautifully presented slab of a cheeseboard.
Décor
Italian cracked leather chairs, dark wood floorboards, exposed brick walls and great lighting really make the room feel warm and cosy without inducing a postprandial snooze – there are enough modern touches throughout to keep it contemporary, with a great stocky table surrounded by bar stools in the corner erfect for singles in the mood for nothing more than a Bloody Mary and the paper for company.
Upshot
As it’s literally only just launched we haven’t seen the best of this place packed and buzzing – but we think it’ll come, and soon. We loved the way time seemed to slowly float by in between beautifully cooked dishes and personable service, and the edited Sunday lunch menu seemed to hit all the right spots. Sure the view over Fulham Road isn’t exactly 9th Avenue, but with your gaze focused firmly on the food you’ll hardly notice.
