Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 26th January 2011
Entree
Battersea’s bijou brasserie and piano bar
2 Battersea Rise, SW11 1ED - 020 7223 5147
www.entreebattersea.co.uk
Location
A more stylish wave of eating spots, in contrast to the slew of drinking dens, have been popping up in this area between Battersea and Clapham recently (Austrian bistro Delicat being one of the more interesting). This former kebab joint, tucked behind a bus stop on the edge of the common, is the latest.
Vibe
Call me jaded but from time to time I get a tired of beating a path to the latest over-hyped hotspots and just want somewhere that serves good food where I can meet a friend for a low-key catch-up, and, okay, maybe a cocktail or two. The slick but laid-back Entree – complete with piano bar – meets my needs most adequately.
Flavours
Chef Omar Palazzolo has had a pretty illustrious career so far (Nobu, Tom Aikens, Le Gavroche), and it shows. Dishes are imaginative, beautifully presented and all we tried delivered. Scallop and crab lasagna was creamy and packed with seafoodie flavours and the steak tartare was one of the best I’ve had in ages (could have sworn there was creme fraiche in there somewhere). And at £18 for haunch of venison with all the trimmings it’s not cheap but not overpriced either. I’m planning on returning for Sunday lunch.
Décor
The upper ground floor brasserie-style dining space is a great example of under design; dark wood chairs and floors, walls lined with vintage Parisian news cuttings, open kitchen at the back. While the Bentley Bar downstairs is speakeasy style; simple, snug, dimly lit, with jazzy, tinkling pianists from 8pm til late every Thursday and Friday.
Upshot
Hands-on, Aussie born owner Jayke Mangion is keen to please and has brought on board a young, equally enthusiastic team. For anyone already groaning at the thought of Valentines (but secretly hoping they do something) you could do worse than opt for the £35, three course set menu here, and start the evening with oysters at £1 a throw and £5 martinis in the bar.
