Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 24th February 2011
Fox & Grapes
Popular Wimbeldon boozer gets new direction
9 Camp Road, SW19 4UN - 020 8619 1300
foxandgrapeswimbledon.co.uk
Location
It may not be the hippest address but the Fox & Grapes on the edge of Wimbledon Common has long been popular amongst dog-walkers and womble-lovers (sorry, couldn’t resist) and has just acquired a new landlord which has got tongues wagging and curtains twitching.
Vibe
Two Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi (of Hibiscus fame) has installed Patrick Leano in the kitchen and his brother Cedric managing the restaurant to make sure things run smoothly. So let’s just say the clientele has shifted rather dramatically from old blokes in wellies towards more serious foodie types keen to try this new destination hotspot.
Flavours
The menu leans firmly towards nostalgia, with a few twists. Prawn cocktail and Patrick’s secret recipe burger went down a treat with my picky other half (even without the foie gras which is known to cosy up to the beef on occasion); while snail lasagna with its garlicky, creamy, bacony sauce had me wanting to lick the plate but left me a bit defeated when it came to my lamb shoulder main course - and meant that treacle and pecan tart was definitely a no-go.
Décor
Nothing massively out of the ordinary in this department (what is it with gastropubs and that sage green colour?). Things have been kept fresh and simple with a few minimal, retro touches like Beatles cushions and a splash of ironic floral print.
Upshot
Chefs have had varying success opening pubs over the years. Heston has been resoundingly successful, Gordon not so much, Marco... you’re never quite sure. Bosi is the latest to tread this territory (or rather retread it, he also owned The Bell in Yarpole) and the announcement that rock star chef Rene Redzepi will take to the stove with him at Hibiscus in April can only make this rural retreat even more attractive.
