Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 4th May 2011
St John Hotel
Nose-to-tail eating makes its way West.
1 Leicester Street, London, WC2H 7BL - 0203 301 8069
Location
The address says Leicester Street; but the door’s on Lisle Street. Yes, St John’s Fergus Henderson, the gaffer of English grub, has opened a hotel, restaurant and bar in the heart of Chinatown. Some might know the site as Manzi’s ‘famous seafood restaurant’ opposite the Swiss Centre (as was), but the rest of you who’ve just blown into town will know it by its neighbour, the spiffy new W Hotel.
Vibe
Ardent, offal-eyeing fanboys of Henderson’s ‘nose to tail’ cooking are out in force at lunch. A cooler, prettier crowd rolls in later, post-theatre or for a boozy midnight feast. Food – proper food! – is served until 2am. The idea of the hotel is to eat some, drink some, have a hoot, book a room, drink some more, then conk out.
Flavours
Those who know the mothership or its Spitalfields scion, St John Bread and Wine, will recognise some dishes that head chef Tom Harris (latterly of the latter) has brought up west with him – snails and bacon or lemon sorbet and vodka for example. ‘Barley, Carrots & Curd’ (£8) is prettier than it sounds: a tumble of radishes, onions and scrubbed carrots resembling Peter Rabbit’s supper. While a handsome, gently flavoured pike and leek pie for two (£34) is the antithesis of the mimsy sharing plates currently doing the rounds (and for that we sing its praises to the stars). New here are the buttery, spiced and fruited ‘breakfast buns’ and, still on a bun tip, the ‘little bun moments’ (chocolate, anchovy or prune) to be had in the first floor bar all afternoon.
Décor
Architect-turned-chef Henderson dishes out tough love in design form. The dining room’s cramped; the chairs are hard and wooden; and the walls are plain and white. The minimally furnished bar with its blue lino floor and brick leather sofas veritably pops with colour by comparison. The bar is hard to love – more staffroom chic than schoolroom chic – but we’re willing to try.
Upshot
Wallet-walloping bar bills are mitigated by beautiful food. Come occasionally and do the works (supper, bar, bed) or come a lot and just do buns.
