Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 25th May 2011
The Gilbert Scott
Marcus Wareing’s posh new place at St Pancras
St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, NW1 2AR - 020 7278 3888
Location
After many years and many, many millions, the vast Midland Grand hotel in King’s Cross has finally been restored to its Victorian splendour, re-named the St Pancras Renaissance and re-opened for business. For those of us with only average-sized pockets (rooms ere towards the impressively pricey), the experience will be limited to the ground floor with its splendid bar and Marcus Wareing’s second restaurant, The Gilbert Scott, named after the architect responsible for the glorious Gothic pile.
Vibe
It’s fair to say that it’s aimed less at London locals than Eurostar travellers beginning or ending their jaunt with a treat. But that’s no bad thing: rather than the blasé, expense account-atmosphere of other high-end joints, fellow diners here tend towards the jolly and appreciative. Plus, the fact that you’re unlikely to bump into anyone you know gives the place a frisson: perhaps it’ll replace Kettners as the venue of choice for adulterous couples not wanting to be spotted.
Flavours
Quaint, olde worlde Britishness is the name of Wareing’s game: dishes include Mrs Peckham’s lobster and mushrooms on sippets. But unlike Heston’s similarly history-minded approach at Dinner, the food here is more straightforward than it sounds. Tweed Kettle, for example, is just a perfectly cooked fillet of sea trout with a crust. Pudding is where he cuts loose,with witty takes on classics: cheddar cheese ice cream accompanies Eccles cakes, and Kendal Mint Cake provides the inspiration for a genius choc ice.
Décor
Pretty astonishing, from eye-level upwards at least, the ceiling’s white metalwork is doily-intricate, and the butter-yellow walls lined with old mirrors, paintings and pillars topped with lashings of gold leaf. You get the impression that, after restoring the hotel’s original features, there wasn’t much money left for furniture: it’s pleasant enough but unmemorable. On your way out, however, be sure to stand at the bottom of the hotel’s grand staircase and gaze upwards at the multi-floored view. Alas, a polite gent will stop you actually going up – unless, of course, you caved and splurged on a room after that third glass of Viognier.
Upshot
An oasis of class and refinement on the Euston Road, suitable for both your visiting gran and your new squeeze.
