Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 29th June 2011
Massimo's Restaurant & Oyster Bar
Luxe seafood brasserie that's high on style
Corinthia Hotel, Northumberland Avenue, SW1A 2BD - 020 7998 0555
Location
The Corinthia hotel in Whitehall has already caused quite a stir, a possible connection with Gaddafi being the most headline-grabbing rumour. But then, what glam business development getting cash poured into it doesn't involve dodgy dealing somewhere down the line?
Vibe
The hotel itself has the most rooms (294, including 43 suites) and is certainly one of the swankiest in London. So it figures that they would fly in Rome's foremost fishy chef, Massimo Riccioli, to open the star restaurant (the other is the perfectly acceptable Northall). The grand brasserie style room has instant wow factor, complete with modelly looking front-of-house staff and amazing lighting in the evening - always a plus.
Flavours
Simpler than I expected, the food at Massimo's all sounds mouthwatering, and so it should be at the price. I'm a traditionalist when it comes to oysters and don't eat them when there isn't an 'r' in the month so went, instead, for grilled octopus with avocado and aioli and turbot with cherry tomatoes, potatoes, lemons and clams. Both were good but not breathtaking. The Capriccio di ciocolatto was the best bit and I'm normally a sucker for savoury.
Décor
As schmoozy and renowned as Massimo is, for me the design is the thing here and good old David Collins Studio has done a stirling job from the jazz-age gem of a bar, Bassoon (that's well worth popping into for a pre-dinner cocktail), through to the elegant luxe of Massimo's.
Upshot
At £18 for a starter and into the twenties and beyond for mains it's not somewhere you'd pop into on a regular basis. Go instead for the set menu (£23 for a two-course lunch or pre-theatre supper) or a bowl of pasta at the bar, but maybe wait until the four-floor spa has opened - and there's an 'r' in the month.
