Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 9th June 2011
José
The man behind Brindisa branches out
104 Bermondsey Street, SE1 3UB - 020 7403 4902 (no reservations)
Location
A prime corner spot on Bermondsey Street where, on a sunny lunchtime, the scene is so salubrious you suspect Richard Curtis to be somehow involved (or Woody Allen, at least). Floor-to-ceiling windows give you a ringside seat onto the lives of the lucky locals, with their warehouse flats, cool independent shops and cute dogs. Opposite is the excellent Garrison, useful if José is packed – which is not unlikely, it being both muy pequeno and sin reservas.
Vibe
José Pizarro’s aim is to create an authentically Spanish tapas and sherry bar – but this place is way more stylish than anywhere we’ve ever found on holiday. It's chic, efficient and buzzy, with an unobtrusive house soundtrack and great looking staff. It’s a tough call between sitting at the counter as the chefs cook up a storm, or facing out onto the street to people-watch. In the evenings, you’re unlikely to get the luxury of such choice: the place is a mob scene.
Flavours
The menu, which changes every three to four weeks, follows classic lines: think impeccably sourced single-ingredient dishes, such as boquerones doused in Cava vinegar, and well-executed standards like patatas bravas and chorizo in red wine. Daily specials depend on what’s good at the market. We tried loin of pork, cooked very rare – Pizarro came out from the kitchen to explain that the pig’s diet had consisted solely of acorns ‘and the odd mouse'.
Décor
Somehow, in such a small space, they’ve managed to include every design element desired by the urban(e) set: exposed brickwork, aged wooden beams, industrial girders and light fittings, rustic tiles, plus white marble counters to reflect the light and make everyone’s skin look gorgeous. Legs of jamon hang from the ceiling, and piles of fresh, glossy prawns and asparagus sit behind glass on the counter, waiting to be cooked to order.
Upshot
Small but beautifully formed, José is a welcome addition to the current spate of stylish, lively tapas joints in the city. Warning: a visit may induce serious SE1 lifestyle envy.
