Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 15th September 2011
Wolfgang Puck’s CUT
Steak and stardust on Hyde Park
45 Park Lane, W1K 1PN - 020 7493 4554
Location
In a swank new hotel, 45 Park Lane, in the gilded parallel universe that is Mayfair. Here at UJ we don’t cover many of these ultra-luxe W1 restaurants, but this is one a bit special: the European debut of American celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck. Since making his name with Spago in Beverly Hills, Puck has been empire-building at a rate that makes Jamie Oliver look lazy: this is the fourth in his latest chain, which promises top notch steak and, perhaps, a sighting of his loyal celeb clientele.
Vibe
There’s no getting away from the fact that this is a big-bucks Mayfair hotel and the majority of your fellow diners will be people you’re unlikely to bump into on a night out in Dalston - be they grand, grey-haired men or Joan Collins (we missed her by a day, alas). But it’s far less starchy than these places usually are. A rock soundtrack livens the mood and staff are impeccably professional and friendly: this is the kind of classy place where no-one will bat an eyelid at jeans and un-brushed hair.
Flavours
Carnivores, prepare to be exacting. This being an American joint, you’re expected to specify your steak’s provenance, cut, weight, sauces and add-ons, from onion to fois gras. Size-wise, we advise restraint: despite us being extremely greedy, and it being perfectly cooked, we couldn’t finish our 10 oz New York sirloin. Chips, fried in peanut oil, were excellent. Likewise, the three mouthfuls of our chocolate dessert we managed before admitting defeat. Those forsaking red meat needn’t feel short-changed: alternatives range from pan-fried lobster to a tuna tartare topped with wafer thin slices of avocado, so beautifully presented we were twitching to take a photo.
Décor
Think contemporary gentleman’s club, with a twist. Acres of dark wood are broken up by a series of Damien Hirst butterfly prints – the most ever hung together, apparently – and some serious feature lighting, one of which looks like a vast piece of silver coral. This is no-expense-spared territory, a reminder that not everyone is currently feeling the pinch. Picture windows give a view over the Mazerati-clogged Park Lane to the greenery beyond.
Upshot
Seriously upscale yet surprisingly fun, this is where to take your steak-obsessed loved one for a treat. Bring a heavy wallet and an empty stomach; rubber-necking optional.
