Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 29th September 2011
The Arts Club
London's oldest arts club gets a glam new look
40 Dover Street, W1S 4ND - 020 7499 8581
Location
This grand Mayfair institution, co-founded by Charles Dickens, has entertained the likes of Whistler, Kipling, Degas and many a Royal Academician since it first opened nearly 150 years ago.
Vibe
Having undergone a major, year-long refurb the place has an uber plush new look (no boho touches or shabby chic here) and a star-studded committee; Gwyneth Paltrow has collaborated on the décor (as you probably know by now) and Mark Ronson will be in charge of the music when the basement club starts jumping at the beginning of October. Only snag is, you need to be a member (around £1000 to join and £1000 per annum) to take part in the fun.
Flavours
The club's elegantly swanky restaurant is currently home to the hottest tables in town, with superstar chef Raphael Duntoye (from Le Petite Maison) overseeing a seriously delectable modern European menu. Watermelon and tomato combine in a hybrid soup-salad dish that is zingily refreshing, tian of crab is creamy, aniseedy and appley, Dover sole comes luxuriously meuniered or you could share a roast black leg chicken with morels. Puddings are sublime. Cheap, it ain't but you could always stick to a round of starters - or blag your way in for breakfast.
Décor
The high-ceilinged dining room is a symphony of greys and blues with a marble-topped oyster bar, artfully mottled mirrors and huge, swirly Albert Oehlen paintings on the walls. Lights twinkle in the garden where you're free to enjoy a cigar until 10pm. It's all distinctly Fitzgeraldian.
Upshot
The newly unveiled clubhouse is seriously swish (think velvety banquettes and thwacking great chandeliers). All that's missing are a few edgier members to mix with the moneyed crowd that have already made themselves at home. The arrival of Mr Ronson and friends should do the trick.
