Eat & Drink
Originally published on Friday, 9th December 2011
Pizarro
Jose goes large
194 Bermondsey Street, SE1 3TQ
020 7378 9455 (but no reservations, except for private dining)
Location
On Bermondsey Street, just a short skip – or stagger, depending on sherry consumption – from ex-Brindisa chef Jose Pizarro’s first solo venture, the tapas bar Jose. You can’t blame Pizarro for not straying far with his new joint; after all, there’s no cooler place to be at the moment than Bermondsey Street and, judging from the ever-packed Jose, SE1 loves his stylish Spanish ways.
Vibe
Absolutely kicking on the Friday night we were there. In fact, so New York-esque and buzzy was the atmosphere and well-dressed the crowd, it seemed a waste that someone wasn’t shooting GVs for a spirits commercial. Like Jose, Pizarro doesn’t take reservations, but when a two hour wait for a table was announced, no one seemed put off. Instead they flocked around the bar, merrily knocking back the Cava and grazing on manchego and jamon. The staff confessed to being caught off-guard by the demand, but kept the show on the road with charm. (Oh, and another commonality with Jose - all the staff are gorgeous.)
Flavours
Dishes here are bigger than the tapas at Jose but not quite regular restaurant portions, and are designed for sharing. The concept is the same: quality ingredients, simply prepared, in well-considered combinations. Alongside favourites from Jose such as garlic prawns and to-die-for croquetas, we tried anchovies on toast with egg, squid and potatoes laced with aioli, a moist hake steak with clams, and pan-fried bream with chard. We tried not to let our greed get in the way of our discrimination, but felt pretty much everything was fabulous: the only criticism we could muster was that the hake was a touch too salty. Whilst Jose is a sherry joint, Cava is the house drink here; there’s also a very decent selection of wine by the carafe.
Décor
Like Jose, Pizarro is very stylish in the contemporary, multi-material fashion – exposed brickwork, tiles, wood, metal and marble are all judiciously employed, as well as excellent low lighting and vast flower arrangements. The forty seats are divided between those at the bar, which overlooks the open kitchen, booths, tables and, at the back, a private dining area. A salsa soundtrack plays at just the right volume to not intrude but still keep things lively – not that Pizarro needs much help in that department.
Upshot
Another roaring SE1 success from Jose Pizarro. Let’s hope he won’t stop just because he’s run out of names.
