Eat & Drink
Originally published on Monday, 25th March 2013
MASTER AND SERVANT
Classy surf n’ turf
8-9 Hoxton Square N1 6NU | 020 7729 4626 | @servantfood
In a Sentence
A New York-inspired grill from an ex-St John double whammy.
Vibe
New York, but not too New York, ie. just the right amount of exposed brick and industrial lighting.
Flavours
You can smell the smokey chargrilled fumes wafting up the stairs as soon as you sit down. Unfortunately, when we visited the seafood deliveries were thin on the ground due to weather so our plans for rock oysters and smoked crab were scuppered. The lamb with smoked onion and ramson was similar to a dish we had in San Sebastian, and the steak was good, as were the starters – surf clam chowder, rainbow trout with avocado and grilled leeks with Stichelton. If these are the pre-cursors to the surf, we’re coming back for that crab.
Top Tip
Go for late supper as it’s more buzzy and when most diners arrive.
Highlight
Pistachio doughnuts trumped the éclair.
