Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 8th August 2013
THE LOCKHART
Southern Comfort
22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL | 0203 011 5400 | @LockhartLondon
Location
Situated in Marylebone, just the other side of the dud end of Oxford Street and on the same street as another region-specific restaurant Donostia. There's a lot of footfall from Selfridges shoppers – at least one yellow bag per three passersby – as well as lots of alfresco eating and drinking along this street in summer.
Vibe
When we heard that The Lockhart was a Southwestern American restaurant set up by four homesick Texans, we envisaged the vibe to be all blues music, cow hides and peanut shells. However, it's more much more Austin foodie hangout than traditional Texan steakhouse: staff are tattooed, booted and pierced and the cocktails feel like they've come fresh from Austin's midnight speakeasy scene. The service is slick without being swanky.
Flavours
On paper it's "Southwestern" but The Lockhart was described to us as "basically Tex Mex". And Tex Mex it is: it's hearty and soulful, but also refined (no run-of-the-mill chilli and fajitas here). Begin at the downstairs bar where head mixologist Emily, a bona fide encyclopaedia of mezcal and tequila knowledge, will rustle up something on or off the cocktail list. We stuck to tequila – the Ginger Crush (refreshing, with fresh ginger and elderflower), the Berry Paloma (sweet with a spicy kick) and the Smoky Margarita (a double helping of tequila + mezcal – not for the faint of heart). Food-wise, go big or go home – it's heavy, hearty and there's a lot of cheese. Some people might say that nachos are a crass end for the lobster, but we loved this dish, which was topped with a smoky mozzarella, guacamole and a kicking salsa. We love the fact that age-old Tex Mex staples Tortilla Soup and Southwest Caesar Salad are on the menu, too. Mains were a clear-cut choice – the sea bass with lobster, chorizo and crayfish bouillabaisse was daringly rich (but we finished it), while the Sussex fillet with Oxford blue cheese grits and Cajun onion rings veered more towards a Texan steakhouse but the 21-day aged meat and skilfully smoked heritage tomatoes reined it back in. A side of mac ‘n' cheese is necessary.
Decor
Once again, the design aesthetic feels very Austin. It's quite minimal, with whitewashed walls, stripped wooden floors and a bit of exposed brick, plus a few vintage touches. The only nod to Texan tack is some small, painted antlers on the wall.
Upshot
The only downside is, despite the owners being natives, we didn't actually speak to any Texans/Southwesterners. However, this is Austin via Marylebone, not Austin, TX, and it's the closest you're going to get without leaving the continent.
