Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 27th November 2013
CAFÉ MURANO
Angela Harnett, Take II
33 St James's Street, London, SW1A 1HD
Location
Nestled in the heart of St James’s Street, a block away from the neighbourhood’s other foodie favourite, Gymkhana.
Vibe
Riding the trend of upmarket establishments billed as taverns/cafes/eating houses, the vibe here is decidedly more formal than your local café. Expect a mixed crowd of theatre-goers, young professionals eating at the bar, and older clientele who call Mayfair home.
Flavours
Angela Hartnett is all about Italian flavours. Here, head chef Samantha Williams serves up hearty Northern Italian cuisine, executed in line with Hartnett’s signature Michelin-starred flair. We started off with truffle arancini, which was decadently aromatic with a satisfying crispy vs. creamy texture. The antipasti menu has options for carnivores and vegetarians alike – try the warm octopus, chickpeas and pesto for rich flavours that pack a punch. Sadly, on our visit the slow-cooked wild boar fettuccine was still (slowly) cooking, so we opted for risotto Milanese with ossobuco; the saffron risotto was indulgently buttery, while the tender veal fell apart at the touch, the perfect antidote for a cold London evening. Likewise, the wild mushroom gnocchi featured the lightest pasta pillows we’ve ever eaten. For dessert, the panna cotta – its creamy texture delicately offset with caramelised orange – was a standout, while the zingy green apple gelato (churned daily) was saturated with flavour. As for drinks, the cheery bar staff are masterful (the Gin It was a UJ fave), and wine lovers can enjoy an extensive, 100 plus wine list. We’ll be back to try the wild-boar fettuccine.
Décor
This is Angela Hartnett’s empire at its most relaxed. Though the interior is luxe, with a gleaming marble bar and oversized mirrors, cosy leather banquettes, plush bar stools and warm chandelier lighting make Café Murano a place you can easily settle into.
Upshot
Refined Italian food in Mayfair that won’t break the bank.
