Eat & Drink
Originally published on Friday, 24th August 2007
Angelus
It has to be said, it's not often I get really, properly excited about a new restaurant. For the most part they seem to follow one familiar genre or another and, while all well and good, they don't have that sprinkling of magic dust, that special glow, that makes you feel all is good in the world.
Thierry Tomasin, however, has poured his heart and soul into Angelus, and you can feel it. Just opened in lack-lustre Bayswater, it is part classy boozer, part Parisian brasserie. There are shiny red Chesterfield-style banquettes at the front and crushed velvet sofas at the back, with an indulgent private dining-room-cum-wine-cellar and chef's table downstairs. No detail has been left unattended to, right down to the lighting which is satellite-controlled so is always just right - none of that being plunged into darkness at 7pm.
Thierry has Eurostarred his head chef over from Paris, and you can tell. From tender lamb with baby carrots to perfectly cooked John Dory with baby artichokes and roast tomatoes, the food has a lightness of touch but is still packed with flavour. Saying that, the foie gras brulee is a heart attack in a bowl but has to be tasted to be believed.
If you don't leave feeling just a little giddy with happiness, I'll eat my beret.
Hours: Mon-Sun 12pm-11pm
Place: 4 Bathurst St, W2
Cost: £30
Web: angelusrestaurant.co.uk
Book: 020 7402 0083