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Eat & Drink

Originally published on Friday, 16th November 2007

Terranostra

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The great thing about Terranostra is that it doesn't try. It doesn't try to be trendy, it doesn't try to be the best, it doesn't have a Kelly Hoppen interior, and there's not a wiggly twig or LED light in sight. Even the staff are efficiently and welcomingly low-key.

This alone would be enough to make it a pleasure to spend a lunchtime or evening there but there is also the small fact that this new gem serves some of the best Sardinian food you'll find in London.

To start there are things like melting pecorino served with sweet slivers of quince or smoky tuna bresaola. There are delicious ravioli filled with either spinach and prawns or burrata, crab linguine spiked with plenty of chilli, garlic and parsley, the sort of grilled fish you normally only find in proper trattorie on the coast in Italy (from nearby Billingsgate we're guessing) and puddings (try the pannacotta or tiramisu) to die for.

The only downside is its location on Old Bailey which is far from salubrious, but then some of the best food is found in the most unlikely of places.
       
Hours: Lunch 12-3pm • Dinner 6pm-10.30pm
Place: 27 Old Bailey, EC4M 7HS
Cost: £30
Web: terranostrafood.co.uk
Book: 020 3201 0077

by SL

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