Eat & Drink
Originally published on Friday, 23rd November 2007
L'Autre Pied
We haven't done a fine diner for a while, but L'Autre Pied is not one for those particular about white tablecloths and airs and graces which is what makes it refreshing.
Though many assumed Pied a Terre's second venture would be a comptoir version of its older sister, scandalously young chef-in-charge Marcus Eaves (26) is already proving that this place stands on its own - and he doesn't even mind the term gastro-cafe being used to define it.
The interior is simple and clean with nicely-honed dark wood tables and floors and a few floral touches here and there, but the food is the thing. The menu is deceptively straight-forward to look at but the complexity lies within. Eaves has a way with fish, for a start, that makes gilt head bream, with the addition of salsify puree and rosemary jus, a thing to satisfy the heartiest of appetites on a crisp wintery afternoon, and his steamed and roast hare with root vegetables and caramelised garlic puree is already becoming a thing of legend. Puddings like bayleaf pannacotta, red wine granita and clove ice cream confirm that Eaves is going the extra mile.
Go for the five course Surprise Tasting Menu and watch this space for stars of both kinds.
Hours: Mon-Fri Midday-3pm & 6pm-10.45pm • Sat 6pm-10.45pm
Place: 5-7 Blandford Street, W1U 3DB
Cost: £40
Web: www.lautrepied.co.uk
Book: 020 7486 9696