Eat & Drink
Originally published on Friday, 7th December 2007
Sakenohana
Alan Yau is one of those rare restaurateurs who, it seems, never puts a foot wrong.
Hakkasan is the Chinese answer to Nobu, Yauatcha has made dim sum chic and Busaba Ethai is the Wagamama generation's current spicier, more grown-up canteen of choice. He's even managed to wangle some Michelin stars for his chefs.
So it's no wonder it was with baited breath that London waited for his latest place to open. A Japanese to rival the city's finest, in a previously jinxed location? Had the man bitten off more tempura than he could chew?
From the glossy black lobby to the simple wooden 'sake-bar' style of the first floor diining-room it's good to see Yau's nack for design hasn't diminished and service, provided by ninja-like waiters is equally stealthy.
Menuwise, although there were a couple of combinations that didn't work (like soft-shell crab with too gloopy a sauce), dishes like red king crab legs with daikon and ponzu and Chilean sea bass with miso and shimeji mushrooms more than made up for it and hinted that this modern Japanese is here to stay.
Hours: Mon-Sun 12-3pm & 6pm-12am (Sun -11pm)
Place: 23 St. James Street, SW1A 1HA
Cost: £80
Web: www.sakenohana.com
Book: 0207 925 8988