Eat & Drink
Originally published on Friday, 21st December 2007

Suka

It was with some trepidation that I revisited this modern Malaysian restaurant at the Sanderson hotel. I'd eaten there earlier this year when it first replaced Spoon, Alain Ducasse's modern eclectic offering, and the food was mediocre to put it mildly.
So it took a bit of arm-twisting on the part of my dining companion to get me in there, particularly as I'm not always in the mood for the main bar area which you have to push your way through to get to the restaurant - better to go via the more chilled terrace if you can.
Anyway, once in, I'm glad to report that the food now tastes as if it's had a rocket shoved up it and almost jumps off the plate with flavour. From tuna tartare with pineapple and black pepper pickle (more of a salsa) to soft shell crab with a deliciously smoky chili dressing everything was spot on - as it should be for the price.
There is also the more affordable Express Lunch menu (£19.50 for three courses or £22.50 for four) and, if you're at a loss for New Year's Eve you can go and be entertained by Immodesty Blaize while you eat.
Hours: Mon-Sun 12-2.30 • Mon-Weds 5.30-12am • Thurs-Sat 5.30-12.30am • Sun 5.30-10.30pm
Place: Sanderson, 50 Berners Street, W1T 3NG
Cost: £65
Web: sandersonlondon.com
Book: 020 7300 1444
