EAT & DRINK

Originally published on Friday, 08 February 2008

Almeida

It's still yet to be seen whether D&D London who took over Conran Restaurants a year or so ago will manage to enhance the group's attributes through their tweaks or whether they'll step over the mark, but by the looks of what they've done with Islington institution Almeida the signs are good.

The place has been refreshed rather than overly updated; the cosy banquettes and open kitchen remain, they've just been spruced up and given a new, cool colour scheme, and the retro trolley service, with one devoted solely to charcuterie, is still going. Food is a little lighter... cornish crab, avocado and tomato confit and steamed halibut with and the wine list has been given a bit of a make-over with the addition of some well-chosen New Worlds alongside the French.

Another welcome development is the introduction of a pichet of wine and three petit plats - maybe mussel and saffron soup, wild mushroom and truffle honey risotto and steak tartare - for £15 (that's what you'd pay for a starter in some places these days).

It's good to see that David & Des realise that a little goes a long way.
        
Hours: Mon-Sat: 12-2.30pm and 5.30-10.30pm • Sun 1-9pm
Place: 30 Almeida Street, N1 1AD
Cost: £30
Web: almeida-restaurant.co.uk
Book: 020 7354 4777

 

by SL

Weekend Eats: Archive

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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.

 
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