Originally published on Friday, 22nd February 2008

Bord'Eaux

What's not to like about French-style brasseries? Comfortingly nostalgic surroundings, satisfyingly buttery food and the opportunity to munch on croque monsieur and French onion soup any time of the day or night. I still maintain that there should be one on every corner - just better examples than Cafe Rouge offers.

Which is why Bord'Eaux is a cause for celebration. Park Lane has never had much in the way of laid back eateries - Trader Vic's may have kitsch appeal but you have to be in the mood for cocktails served in pineapples - and chef-patron Ollie Couillaud has certainly earned his stripes, having worked his way across some of London's finest establishments over the last fifteen years before settling here.

Focusing on food from the Western coast of France which Couillaud describes as 'cuisine de terroir with a bit of panache' - think familiar favourites such as sole meuniere and cassoulet Toulousain - there are nice authentic touches too like the inclusion of Couillaud's grandma's recipe for Broyes du Poitou biscuits.

And of course, you can't call a place Bord'Eaux without offering a decent wine list, which interestingly has connections with British wine-makers but I've run out of space to explain why so you'll have to check the place out for yourself.
        
Hours: Mon-Sun: 7am-10.30pm • (Fri & Sat til 11pm)
Place: Grosvenor House Hotel, Park Lane, W1K 7TN
Cost: £40
Web: www.bord-eaux.com
Book: 020 7399 8460

 

by SL